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Kelowna • Okanagan • Snow Retention SNOW
STOPS.

Snow does not come off a metal roof gradually. It lets go all at once, as a slab, usually on the first warm afternoon after a cold snap. Snow stops are there to hold it where it fell until it melts.

1.7 kPa
Kelowna’s ground snow load in the BC Building Code, Appendix C
About 170 kg
What that weighs on every square metre of ground
No code rule
BC does not require snow retention on a house — what sits under the eave decides

It Comes Off All At Once.

Snow sits on a metal roof held mostly by friction. Sun on the panel, or heat escaping up through the deck, melts a thin film underneath it — and the slab loses its grip in one go. It arrives as a single mass moving fast, and it takes the gutter with it on the way past.

The Okanagan is well set up for this. Our winters swing back and forth across freezing rather than staying cold, and every swing is another chance for the roof to let go. It usually happens on the mild afternoon after a cold week — which is exactly when people are outside again.

To be straight about it: no BC code makes you put snow retention on a house. On a house there is usually nothing in the code to satisfy. Stratas, resort developments and commercial designs sometimes do call for it, so we check before we quote. It is worth doing when there is something underneath worth protecting — the door you actually use, a walkway, the driveway, a gas meter, a heat pump, a deck. If your roof sheds onto open lawn, you can reasonably leave it alone.

Done Properly.

01

Standing Seam

Clamped to the seam. No holes. The brackets grip the raised seam rather than going through the panel, so the metal keeps expanding and contracting the way it was designed to. Screwing a snow stop through a standing seam pins the panel to the structure — the fixing fatigues, works loose, and then it leaks.

02

Screw-Down Panels

Through the panel, and sealed. Exposed-fastener profiles have no seam to grip, so the mount has to go through the sheet. What it lands in matters as much as the fastener does, and that gets worked out on the roof rather than assumed.

03

Shingle & Tile

Asphalt grips snow far better than metal, so it is a smaller problem — but a steep pitch above an entry still lets go. How the stops attach depends on whether the roof is being replaced or staying put, and tile takes its own bracket entirely.

04

Spacing Is Worked Out

For a full system, the supplier lays it out for your roof: its snow load, its pitch, the roof type and the distance the snow travels before it reaches the stop. It is worked out, not a rule of thumb. A long slope usually needs more than one row — a single line at the eave asks one bracket line to hold the whole roof.

05

Where It Goes

Retention only needs to cover what matters: the door you actually use, the walkway, the driveway, the gas meter, the heat pump, the deck. Wrapping every elevation is usually money spent protecting lawn. We would rather point that out than sell you the extra metres.

06

It Is Not An Ice Dam Fix

Snow stops do not cause ice dams — a warm attic does. But if you already get ice at the eave, holding the snow up there gives the meltwater more to work with. If both are happening, sort the ventilation and the ice damming at the same time.

A snow retention rail on a standing-seam metal roof, with the snowpack resting against it and the slope still fully loaded
One rail, a short way up from the gutter, and everything above it is still where it landed. Each bracket clamps a seam — nothing goes through the metal.

Which System Fits Your Roof?

Individual Pads
Best For
Shingle, shorter slopes
Roof Types
Asphalt, tile, metal
Suits
Moderate loads
Visibility
Small, scattered, barely noticed
Cost
$$
Maintenance
Look it over after a heavy winter
Two-Row Rail
Best For
Long slopes, high load, steep pitch
Roof Types
Standing seam, screw-down
Suits
The heaviest loads and long slopes
Visibility
Two horizontal lines
Cost
$$$$
Maintenance
Look it over after a heavy winter

Cost is relative. Your price comes after we have seen the roof.

Got Questions?

Yes, though it is a much smaller problem on asphalt. Shingle granules grip snow, so it tends to come off in pieces rather than as one slab. Where it still matters is a steep pitch directly above an entry or a walkway. If your roof is asphalt and sheds onto lawn, we will usually tell you to save your money.
Not if they are attached the way the panel calls for. On standing seam the brackets clamp the seam — nothing goes through the metal and the panel keeps moving with temperature. Exposed-fastener panels have no seam to grip, so the mount goes through the sheet and is sealed as it goes. The failure we get called out to fix is a snow stop screwed through a standing seam: it pins the panel, the fixing fatigues, and it leaks.
It is worked out, not estimated. Full systems come from suppliers who lay them out for the specific roof: the ground snow load for your address, the roof pitch, the roof type and the length of slope the snow has to cross before it reaches the stop. On smaller jobs we sometimes make our own stops or clips to suit. Long slopes usually need more than one row. If a project needs a stamped structural design, that is an engineer’s work and we will say so rather than pretend otherwise.
Snow stops do not cause ice dams. Heat leaking into the attic does — that is what melts snow from underneath and lets it refreeze at the cold overhang. What is fair to say is that if your roof already dams, keeping the snow up there gives the meltwater more to work with. So if you get ice at the eave every winter, treat the two together: ventilation first, because that is usually the actual fix, and the ice damming work for the rest. On a cold, properly vented roof, retained snow mostly stays put and melts off slowly.
Yes, and most of them are retrofits. On standing seam it is non-invasive, because the brackets clamp on. On other roofs the mount goes through the surface and is sealed as it goes. The one thing worth knowing: if the roof is near the end of its life, it is usually cheaper to do both at once than to pay for the same access twice.

Protect What’s Below Your Roof.
Starting Now.

We will look at what is actually underneath your roofline, work out the spacing for your snow load and pitch, and tell you how much of the roof genuinely needs covering — at no cost.

Request a Free Estimate

No obligation • Spacing worked out for your roof • Metal, shingle and tile